Pick the Right Pattern Size for a Perfect Fit

We all know the excitement of choosing a pattern and finding the right fabric.  Before we start sewing, we dream of the perfectly made and perfectly fit garment.  But we all also know the disappointment of the garment that just doesn't fit right when it is done.  It gaps at the bust line or the armholes.  There is too much fabric under the arms, but not enough fabric across the bust.  Our dream garment is tossed in the closet and never worn.

Fitting a garment is easy if you buy the right sized pattern. But most women buy the wrong sized pattern!  Why is that?  It is because we are just following the directions of the pattern manufacturers.  They tell us to measure our bust, then pick the size of the pattern based on our bust measurements.  Why doesn't this method work?

Look at the two women in the drawing.  Both of these women are a size ten in the neck and shoulders.  But obviously, one size pattern will not fit both women.  To understand how a pattern will fit, you have to understand the basic assumptions that pattern companies make.  First, pattern companies assume that everybody is a "B" cup size.  Secondly, they assume that everybody's body parts are at the same level they were when they are 21!  Well, if you are from the population of women who wear a B cup and are in your young 20's, great!  Most patterns will fit you with very little modification.  But what about the rest of us women?  Especially those of us who may be loosing our battle with gravity??

The Palmer/Pletsch method of pattern fitting will give you a way to choose a pattern size that will give you a perfect fit in clothing.  It is based on historical precedence.  In 1873, James McCall wrote the following instructions:

•      "Ladies' patterns.... should be selected according to the bust measure.  Pass a tape-measure around the bust just under the arms.  Draw it one inch tighter than the dress is to fit.  The number of inches  then ascertained is the size of the bust."

     

So now we have the first rule in choosing the right pattern.  We will use the HIGH BUST MEASUREMENT when choosing the pattern size for blouses, dresses and tops.  This will ensure that the pattern fits perfectly around the shoulders and neck.  It is then very easy to alter the pattern to fit our various sized, shaped and positioned bust line.  Here are a couple of things  to remember when taking a high bust measurement:

•     1.   Measure over the underwear that you plan to wear with your garment.  It will make a big difference if you are wearing a sports bra vs. a bra that     enhances your bus tline.
•     2.  Measure with a snug SKIN measurement.
•     3.  After you  find your measurement, compare it to the pattern size.  If you are in between pattern sizes, choose the SMALLER pattern size, unless the pattern is VERY fitted.

To select a pattern size for pants and skirts, measure your hips at the FULLEST part

.  The fullest part may vary from person to person

     It may be about 7 - 9" below your waist
      It may be only 3" below your waist
     It mach be below your crotch  in the thigh area.

Once again, measure snugly.  Pick your pattern for skirts and pants using this measurement.  If you are in between sizes, go to the next HIGHER size.

What if your bodice and hip measurements puts you in two different pattern sizes?

You can:

• Buy to fit your top and alter the bottom
• Buy two patterns, if necessary
• Buy separates in the correct sizes for your top and bottom.

You are off to a great start for a great fitting garment.  In the next newsletter, we will talk about how to do a Full Bust Adjustment to alter your pattern for fit you perfectly!